Bear Country

Located just south of Rapid City, Bear Country offers tourists the opportunity to view, and if you’re lucky, get up close and personal, with a host of wild critters. We all enjoyed the experience as we led the caravan through the self-guided tour around the park and got a close look at the moose, bison, arctic fox, bighorn sheep, elk, coyote, bobcat, and mountain lion. As we passed through the massive steel gates at the entrance to the first animal enclosure, memories of Jurassic Park flooded my mind. Luckily the only time we found ourselves under attack was when a grizzly decided to take a little nibble out of the bag on our cargo rack (Aidan was in the car behind us and insists the bear was making a meal out of our cargo bag but I think one of the seams had just begun to pull a bit.). We finished our afternoon at the Bear Country by visiting some of the smallest creatures at the baby enclosures. From the three-footed red fox (dad bit her when she was pregnant and they couldn’t operate immediately so they had to amputate her infected leg after the pups were born – sounds like a nice guy…) to the baby bears (where we spent much of our time watching the cubs play with some lucky visitors who had won a drawing) to the badgers (who were running around like maniacs the whole time), we ended our day in the gift shop where we did not – thank goodness – buy any stuffed animals for the dogs to chew up when we got home or $5 lollipops that had small furry creatures ‘hugging’ them or even a T-shirt (although they had some really cute ones on sale). Nope. Just got the one bear-paw bumper sticker which is now displayed on the roof box. We left Bear Country and headed back to Keystone where we looked to find a place to eat from which we could do some people-watching. The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally was on the week we were in South Dakota which made for some really cool sights (never saw so many motorcycles in all my life!) in downtown Keystone.

Mount Rushmore

We were up and out of the Spokane Creek Campground fairly early on so we would have time to really explore Rushmore before heading out to Bear Country for the afternoon. We took Iron Mountain Road (otherwise known at 16A) through Custer State Park, up and over Iron Mountain itself, finishing just beneath Mount Rushmore. The road is part of a scenic byway system and if you’re driving in this area of the Black Hills, is a must-see. There are winding steep roads, lots of wildlife and a few tunnels that provide beautiful framed views of Mt. Rushmore. One of my favorite parts of the trip was the ‘Pig Tail Bridges’ built in the 1930s and 40s and on the National Register of Historic Places in South Dakota. A "pig-tail" is a bridge where the road loops down and under the bridge, just like a piggy's tail. If you enjoy driving or taking scenic photos on the road, this is the place to be. If you or someone driving with you easily gets car sick, this is not the place to be. When we arrived at Rushmore, a light rain had begun to fall. We ducked inside to the reasonably priced restaurant for a delicious bottomless coffee (The Clark Camping Coffee James brews leaves a lot to be desired - sorry honey. What it lacks in flavor, it makes up for in coffee dregs. You hear what I'm sayin'? On top of that, I figured the hot coffee would keep my hands warm while we walked around outdoors. It was unseasonably cool – about 60 degrees - a far cry from the 90s they had been experiencing recently.). We grabbed a Junior Ranger book for Emmett so he could get to work on his last badge of the tour, and headed out towards the Avenue of the Flags that leads up to the monument. First impression – wow. I was somewhat surprised with how enthused I was. Although the sculpture itself is impressive, I think it was the work that went in to building it rather than the finished product that impressed me most. Sculptor Gutzon Borglum never saw his masterpiece finished. Working at such high altitudes, the low oxygen levels took its toll on Borglum’s already-deficient heart. His son Lincoln finished the work but his father probably would not have been pleased with the finished product. The elder Boglum intended to carve full busts of each of the 4 presidents (just Washington is complete) and the debris from the blasting that rested at the base of the mountain was to be removed when the monument was finished. One thing I had not heard of before my visit was the ‘Hall of Records’ located behind Lincoln. Borglum believed the hall should hold important documents, such as the Declaration of Independence and Constitution, as well as other important documents and records that catalogue America’s history. Once we finished viewing the monument, the Lakota Indian exhibit and the sculptor’s studio, we brought Emmett to collect his Junior Ranger badge. There we met a Ranger who was a Millis native, a very friendly guy who we chatted with for some time before heading out to Bear Country, where we were finally able to see the black bears and grizzlies we missed out on at Yellowstone (thank goodness).

Wyoming to South Dakota

Before we left Yellowstone, Emmett got his Junior Ranger Badge. It was 8:30 in the morning and not at all busy at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center so the Ranger who awarded Emmett his badge did so with a special little ceremony, gaining the attention of the 3-4 other early morning visitors before crowning Emmett with his own ranger hat and then bestowing upon him the Junior Ranger badge (and a proper little sew-on badge it was; there are no plastic badges at the granddaddy of all national parks).
We climbed for hours up and over the Bighorn Mountains reaching an altitude of 9,033 feet at Granite Pass. So high were we that we found ourselves driving among the clouds. On our way down off the mountain, cows wandered just beside and sometimes on the highway in an open range area. We did a 180 when James spotted a young moose along the road. We found him munching on some plants along side the road and were very pleased with our find. We needn’t have patted ourselves on the backs too heartily. A few hundred yards along the road, we saw several more moose (these ones with great horns on them) also engaged in a mid-afternoon snack. They looked quite “majestic” as Ben put it with their big, velvety horns. We drove through small towns like ‘Shell’ where the population is just 50 and had to wonder, just how frequently are they having to change those signs? A few hours into our journey, we hit I-90 that runs clear across the country to Boston. We’ll stop off in South Dakota tonight though and try to get a glimpse of Mt. Rushmore. Tomorrow, we’ll hit Bear Country and the town of Keystone. We’re just now having a debate about whether or not Keystone Beer is brewed in Keystone, South Dakota. If it is, we’ll just have to have one won’t we? There’s that whole commitment we made prior to embarking on this trip to eat ‘local’....

A Quick Yellowstone Recap

Some personal favorites from our visit to Yellowstone:
Best Geyser Display=Fountain Geyser
Most Frequently Encountered Animal=Bison
Best Hike=Lower Geyser Basin (not really a hike but rather a stroll along the boardwalk; there’s not a lot of ‘hiking’ at Yellowstone due to the danger of stumbling into a hydrothermal feature – ouch)
Best Side Road Trip=Firehole Lake Drive (along southwestern rim)
Best Campsite=Madison (not that it was more fabulous than the site at Bridge Bay but at least we didn’t have a sign posted 5 ft beyond our ‘rustic’ tent site stating “area beyond closed; high bear traffic area; for your own safety, do not go beyond this sign”
Best Grand Canyon=the one in AZ (sorry Yellowstone)
Best Main Road Drive=all of them. No matter where you go at Yellowstone you will be treated to some truly amazing sights.

Yellowstone National Park

We all woke up at about 4:30 – cold, thirsty and needing the bathroom but there was no way I was stepping out of the car – it was 42 degrees outside! Too cold for me but the perfect temperature for the grizzlies to do a little hunting…. As I lay there not able to fall back asleep, Aidan suddenly announced he felt like he couldn’t breathe (I had been lying awake for some time listening to Abby panting, and I too felt I was working extra hard to fill my lungs) Was it the altitude? (We were spending the night at 7,000 feet.) Was it that the 5 of us were beginning to tap out the oxygen supply in our little car-coon? (Unlikely.) Or was it just so damn cold?! (Probably not…) Hmmm… Anyhow, we ended up cracking some windows and managed to make it through the night. We woke early, leaving the campsite by 8 and drove along to see Old Faithful. Along the way, we saw a family of bison (3 adults, 2 babes) munching on some grass by the river. Driving along the loop road gave such a wonderful overview of the park. Steam rose from the ground like thin wisps of cotton and further along, great clouds hung in the air, blanketing the trees and walkways around them. We thought we’d tuck in to some breakfast on the boardwalk along side Old Faithful as we waited for the next show. We didn’t have to wait too long and when Old Faithful erupted, she went for about 3 minutes (a fairly long eruption as Old Faithful eruptions go). After a quick stop in the Visitor Center and the shops which had far too many t-shirts to choose from, we snuck on to the back of a tour at the historic Inn, which was built in 1904. The rustic interior, done up with wood on the floors and walls, is so dark and the lighting so dim, I felt as though I could lose the person walking next to me if I wasn’t careful. The grand foyer which elevates 5 stories above your head has the most amazing exposed post-and-beam structure which includes a ‘Tree-house’ at the very top (Sadly, due to the fire code, people are no longer allowed to climb to the tree-house. Sorry kids.). All-in-all, the Inn is well worth a look if you’re ever in the area. Yellowstone Park is massive and we wouldn’t be able to do it all during our stay, so we identified some places we’d like to see and hit the road. At the Fountain Paint Pot Area, we saw geysers, as well as hot springs, fumaroles and mud pots. The geysers were very active, especially Fountain Geyser and in my opinion, the display rivaled that of Old Faithful. The colors in the hot springs shone a beautiful turquoise blue, even in the clouded, mid-afternoon sun. As we trotted along, we could hear the fumaroles hissing loudly while the steam danced delicately in to the air (and what a stink that sulfur has…rotten eggs anyone?), and finally, the mud pots, a beautiful brilliant white that bubbled and belched as we strolled along the boardwalk. Along the same route we saw bacterial mats of bright orange, yellow and brown which glistened under a thin layer of water. As my mother-in-law put it, the hydrothermal features at Yellowstone make you feel like you’re on a foreign planet. We stopped at the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Yellowstone, which was rather picturesque, and from the walkway, one could see a beautiful waterfall cascading down to a narrow river below. We camped the second night at Bridge Bay, setting one of the tents up just a few feet in front of a sign which warned hikers not to enter due to the ‘bear danger’. We managed to improve upon the sleeping arrangements in our ‘car bed’ (found the space blanket that I couldn’t put my hand on last night. Those things are loud but warm…) and had a wonderful warm nights’ sleep!

On to Yellowstone

We chose to take the scenic route to Yellowstone (Hey, why not? A mere 2500 miles to cover in 9 days to get us back to Millis by the 20th). So along Route 89 we went. We traveled the Oregon Trail Bear Lake Scenic Byway and I’m very glad we did. Somewhere, I think in Idaho, we passed by Bear Lake, with its beautiful blue waters, surrounded by mountains. There were restaurants selling burgers, fries and ice cream, bakeries advertising freshly baked goods (lots with raspberries; maybe the local crop?) and stores selling inner tubes and floats. It reminded me a bit of a Cape Cod community but much smaller and without all of the horrible Cape traffic! We stopped for a tailgating lunch in Paris (still in Idaho) and then carried along through Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The Snake River ran along beside us for several miles and we enjoyed watching the tubers and kayakers floating down the rapids (which looked a bit more fun than the rapids we encountered along the Colorado in Moab. Snake River Kayak and Canoe which runs out of Jackson Hole seemed to have had a lot of the business floating along the river – we’ll keep that in mind for our next trip out west). We drove through the Grand Tetons, which were absolutely breathtaking. The many peaks form a beautiful jagged skyline. They reached high up in to the sky, so high in fact that some of the peaks were dotted with snow. We finally reached Yellowstone and zigzagged across the Continental Divide before finding ourselves at Old Faithful. We could see her erupting in the distance and would probably have to wait at least another hour or so to see her go again (she averages 90 minutes between eruptions; the wait time depends on how long the eruption lasts. A long blast means a long wait until the next one) so we decided to head on up to Madison Junction, make dinner and set up camp. We would camp one night there and the next at Bridge Bay so in order to save time (and between you and me, save my ass from being bear bait – you’ve been keeping track of the news this summer right?) the kids and I slept in the car which meant we had only 2 tents to put up. Dinner, then straight to bed so we could get an early start the next day.

Salt Lake City

After a lie-in and a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we set off for Tabernacle Square to listen to a 30-minute organ concert. The rounded wall behind the impressively large instrument glowed a different color for each of the songs that were played for us. After the concert, we wandered out in to the square where there were a number of brides and grooms wandering around, posing for photos in the lush surroundings. Emmett then informed me that on average, there are 70 weddings a day in Salt Lake City (he’s a wealth of knowledge that boy). We continued our stroll around the square which was beautiful, bright and clean with large buildings, perfectly manicured lawns and overflowing flower beds. It felt more like I was walking around the headquarters of a large Fortune-500 company and not the central offices of a church which left a funny taste in my mouth. Church and excessive displays of wealth should not go hand in hand in my opinion. That being said, we didn’t spend a lot of time there and headed back to the hotel to prepare for the next part of our day – a swim, or float as it would be, in the Great Salt Lake. We debated going the 40 miles to Antelope Island State Park vs. the 20 miles to a beach just to the west of the city and settled on the quick and dirty method of the water by the city. I’m glad we did. Within no time of leaving the hotel, we pulled up to Saltair, grabbed our cameras and headed out to the water. Sand flies were everywhere, some dead, some alive but none of them really bothered us. There was quite a breeze that whipped up across the great open space but the water was nice and warm, and very clear. We had to walk out some distance to reach the water and even then, it only came up to our thighs. One by one, we all laid back in the salty water of the lake. I am able to confirm for you now, it is indeed true that you will float in the Great Salt Lake. It was relaxing to lie in the water and look up at the mountains that surrounded us. Getting the salty water in your eyes and mouth, not so fun, but you’ve got to take the bad with the good, right? After a long float, we headed back to shore where our skin and swim suits seized up with the salt which now encased us. Opting not to take a shower when we got back to shore (it was a cold, windy walk back from the water and I was finally dry and warm by the time I reached the shore), I now have at least a shaker full of salt on my seat in the car. Before we left, we ventured in to Saltair. Once a popular family destination in the early 1900s, offering a float in the lake as well as an amusement park, the building now lies vacant except for a very small souvenir shop. Postcards and a model of the original Saltair, exquisitely decorated inside and out during its hey-day and reminding me a bit of the Taj Mahal, were displayed in the shop. Saltair experienced a few set-backs over the years, including drought and a few fires, but the final blow was delivered in 1970, in the form of an arson fire from which this tourist destination never recovered. One of the most simplistic yet smart ideas I've seen in a while were the little buckets of orange flags found at the crossings in SLC. Apparently having pedestrians wave these little flags while crossing the roads has significantly cut down on accidents and injuries.

Landscape Arch...and on to Salt Lake City

In 1991, while visitors looked on, a 60-foot long section of Landscape Arch fell to the ground. Park Rangers think that in another 10-15 years, there won’t be a Landscape Arch any more. With our breakfast tucked away in our backpack we started in on the 1.6-mile loop to view what remains of Landscape Arch. We found a cool place behind some rocks to stop, eat and enjoy the scenery. From a distance, Landscape Arch looks rather fragile and thin (but the narrowest part is still 6 feet across) and has several large cracks running along it. After a few snaps of the arch, the kids, the kids and the arch, we set off back down the trail. We were headed for Salt Lake City where we would check in to our hotel and lay low for the rest of day (a little swim, a little Animal Planet on the TV for the kids – their new addiction when we check in to hotels, and a little something to eat…). Really just a whole lot of nothing which was just what we needed….

Rafting the Colorado

We hired a raft from Canyon Adventures in Moab, strapped it to the roof and headed on up route 128 which winds along just east of the Colorado River. We had beautiful views of Arches and the surrounding canyons as we floated down the river. All-in-all the trip was very tame (a welcome surprise for me as I had visions of Emmett falling out and me somehow getting to shore where I’d sprint along the bank before diving in and scooping him up further along the river). We hit a total of 4 rapids (up to a class 2) – just enough bounce for the kids (except Aidan who of course was wishing it was turbulent enough to throw someone overboard) to make the day fun and relaxing for all. Ben and Aidan took turns paddling up front with me while James and Captain Steve handled the steering at the rear. Maybe next time we hit the Colorado, with the kids a bit older, we’ll be ready for some proper white-water rafting (and hopefully I won’t be too old by then to enjoy it). We headed back to camp for a cold beer and a quick swim in the pool before heading off to the BarM Chuckwagon just 5 minutes along the road from us. The ‘old west-themed’ evening included a gunfight, an enormous dinner (BBQ chicken and beef, baked pinto beans, biscuits, baked potato, spice cake and apple sauce all served on a tin plate which was all washed down with a delicious Polygamy Porter), as well as live music and entertainment by the BarM crew. A good value and fun for all. Tomorrow we’ll do a quick morning hike up to Landscape Arch before hitting the trail for Salt Lake City.

Arches National Park

It’s tough to convey in words the beauty and grandeur of Arches National Park in Utah. We arrived at the park fairly early in the morning. Today’s agenda: hike/view Windows, hike/view Delicate Arch, hike/view Landscape Arch. In the end we wouldn’t be able to squeeze it all in to just one day. We have been extremely lucky with the weather on this trip until today when the wet weather really put a damper on our plans. By lunch time we had managed to hike Turret and both Windows as well as Double Arch. Despite the slippery sandstone, we all had fun scrambling along the rocks and climbing into nearby caves. The rain began to really kick in so we left the windows section in search of gas, food and information about rafting on the Colorado. When we returned to Arches we hiked to view Delicate Arch where Abby left one of her braids. An important aspect of Arches is the cryptobionic soil crust which supports the healthy growth of the desert plants which are abundant throughout the park. The crust contains lichen, moss, bacteria and algae, and if damaged, the crust may take up to 250 years to fully recover. Even a single foot print can damage the crust. Informational about the biological soil crust is posted at each trail head to remind hikers to stay on the trails (but hikers are invited to walk on the rocks as much as they like, which makes Arches a really fun place for the kids). As the hours passed, the rain fell heavier still, so we returned to our little cabins at Archview for dinner and a cold drink. The plan for tomorrow – raft the Colorado. P.S. That lichen photo is just for you Paul.